Desert Dreams and Ancient Cities

My 4-Day Itinerary in Jordan

I’ve always had a fascination with Petra — that one iconic image of the Treasury tucked between sandstone cliffs had etched itself into my travel dreams years ago. In my ignorance, I thought Petra was just a single carved facade, not an entire ancient city that spans miles of ruins and desert. That misunderstanding shaped how I planned this trip — and led me to wish I had stayed longer.

With just four days and a loose itinerary, I set off on an adventure that would take me from bustling Amman to the vast stillness of Wadi Rum, the sacred heights of Mount Nebo, and the surreal shores of the Dead Sea. If you’re short on time but big on dreams, this 4-day Jordan itinerary might be exactly what your wanderlust needs.

Day 1:

Touchdown in Amman & an Unplanned Adventure

I arrived in Amman early Friday morning, around 9 AM. I had already booked an airport transfer through Booking.com, which made things simple. The drive from the airport to my hostel took about 45 minutes, and it became the beginning of something. My driver, Fadi, was a young Jordanian with near-perfect English — thanks, he said, to countless hours of playing video games. We clicked instantly.

Fadi and Selene
Selene in Jerash Jordan

Since I had no fixed plans for the day, I asked Fadi if he’d be willing to take me sightseeing later. We negotiated a price and he came back around 1 PM to pick me up for a personalized city tour. First stop: The Amman Citadel, perched on one of Amman’s highest hills. It’s an ancient site that dates back to the Bronze Age and offers sweeping views of the city — plus ruins like the Temple of Hercules and Umayyad Palace. Then, we headed to Jerash, one of the best-preserved Roman cities outside of Italy. Think colonnaded streets, soaring arches, and ancient amphitheaters frozen in time.

Our final stop of the day was Ajloun Castle, a 12th-century Muslim castle built by the followers of Saladin to defend against Crusader invasions. Though Fadi couldn’t act as a licensed guide inside the sites (local law prohibits it), he walked around with me, took my photos, and made the entire day memorable.

Before dropping me off, he introduced me to Shaneeneh, a salty goat-milk yogurt drink that’s as nourishing as it is delicious. Because I visited during Ramadan, food stalls were quiet during the day, and out of respect, I waited to drink it. But I was hooked. Shaneeneh became part of my morning ritual in Jordan — light, tangy, satisfying, and surprisingly soothing for someone with a sensitive stomach.

Ajloun Castle

That evening, Fadi picked me up again for dinner in downtown Amman. We had freshly fried falafel, and then I tasted kunafa, a decadent Jordanian dessert made of shredded phyllo dough, soft cheese, and sugary syrup. Sweet, gooey, and addictive. While I’m usually cautious about spending solo time with strangers / people I have just meet, sometimes your gut just tells you when it’s right — and this felt right. I had my tours already planned, but I made sure to set time aside to see Fadi again on my last day.

Day 2:

Petra, Lost Paths & a Night Under the Stars in Wadi Rum

Day two began before sunrise. I had joined a group tour to visit Petra and Wadi Rum — a long day trip that kicked off with a 3-hour drive from Amman to Petra. My group consisted of just a few travelers, including some friendly Russians, and while our driver wasn’t a licensed guide, Petra speaks for itself. In Jordan, guides are required to have a license, and unless they do, no other local can go around explaining you about the attractions without getting penalized.

To my surprise (again, out of ignorace, I don’t always research everything about the destinations I go to because I like to be surprise) Petra is not a monument — it’s a sprawling archaeological city carved into rose-red cliffs, once the thriving capital of the Nabatean Kingdom.

Walking to petra selene

Just to walk the facility could easily take you  2 hours (without stopping to see anything). If I had known before, I would have probably allocated 2 days for petra, but we only had a few hours (I’ll be back). Entering through the Siq — a narrow, winding canyon that builds anticipation — you eventually reached the Treasury, Petra’s most iconic structure.

But instead of following the main trail, we took the advice of a local Bedouin man who suggested a mountain path for a better view. We got lost (of course), turning the 30-minute walk between the entrance and the first monument (The Siq and the Treasury) into a 2-hour climb through deserted trails, caves, and quiet mountain views (the cherry on top, even less time to see stuff!). But arriving at the Treasury from above, with that breathtaking panoramic view? Worth every misstep.

There are some spots and view points to look at the Treasury from above around the arrive we arrived from, but you need to pay to enter those, since the Bedouins are the ones taking care of them.

The sanctury is all people say it is and more. The monument is simply stunning, and the craftsmanship on the rock is impecable. Unfortunately you are not allowed to go inside any of the monuments, but the views from the exterior are enough.
We got a couple pictures, and after that, it was time to keep moving.

Petra is massive. As you pass the treasury and the Siq the canyon opens up  into dozens of structures: the Royal Tombs, the Theater, the Colonnaded Street, and the Monastery, the second biggest monument of the city, which is located at the far end of the site after a grueling hike of nearly 800 steps, and it was where we were headed. We walked as fast as we could to make it there and come back (the driver gave us a time to be back since we had to drive to wadi rum after).

Petra jordan

We saw all of the others monuments on the way, but didn’t stop for too long since we didn’t have much time. Again, petra is BIG.

Petra is filled with vendors and cafes (cash is necessary) so if you need drinks or want to buy a souvenir, it wouldn’t be complicated.  We barely had time to go there and coming back before having to head back to the entrance for our to our next stop — Wadi Rum. If I could give any recommendations for Petra, would be to allocate enough time, to take your time seeing everything, and to wear comfortable shoes and clothes.

After a drive of a few hours, we arrived at the edge of Wadi Rum, a protected desert wilderness of dramatic sandstone mountains, ancient carvings, and red sand dunes, around 5 pm. You can’t enter the desert in a regular car, so our tour driver dropped us at the parking lot of the abandoned train station, were the bedouins from the overnight camp picked us up on a 4×4 truck.

Wadi rum is one of those places that gives you peace and serenity. It is such a unique and beautiful landscape, and I can’t compare it to anything I have seen. The 4 x 4 drive was super fun, and before going to our camp, we stopped at Khazali Canyon, where petroglyphs and inscriptions from ancient traders remain etched into the rock, the Anfishiyyeh Inscriptions, one of the most significant Thamudic and Nabatean rock carving sites in the region, and ended the afternoon watching the sunset from the dunes — fiery orange skies fading into the kind of star-filled darkness you can only find in the desert. Surreal is an understatement.

Then we went to the camp for dinner. We were served zarb — a traditional Bedouin barbecue cooked underground — along with rice, roasted vegetables, and Bedouin tea made with sage and spices. The camp was well put together, we had small cabins with bathrooms, and basic yet decent facilities, and the peace of the desert made for the best night’s sleep I’d had in weeks. Needless to say, the amount of stars you see is incredible.

Set at Wadi Rum

Day 3:

Sunrise in the Desert, Mount Nebo & Floating in the Dead Sea

Mount Nebo Madaba

Waking up in Wadi Rum was magical. Before breakfast, I climbed a nearby rock to meditate as the sun rose over the desert. The silence was complete, broken only by the occasional breeze. It was one of those rare moments that feel like a spiritual reset.

From there, we headed toward Mount Nebo, a deeply spiritual site in Jordan.

We passed briefly through Madaba, a town known as Jordan’s “City of Mosaics,” filled with Byzantine churches and archaeological treasures. Poverty is more visible here than in Amman, and it reminded me how complex and layered each part of this country is. We didn’t spend much time there, just passed by on out way to Mount Nebo.

According to the Bible, it was from this mountaintop that Moses first glimpsed the Promised Land. Today, it’s a place of pilgrimage, with a serene church, beautifully preserved mosaics, and a bronze serpent monument symbolizing the staff of Moses. The panoramic views stretch across the Jordan Valley and even reach the Dead Sea and Israel on clear days. We spent a couple hours seeing everything, Before heading to the Dead Sea.

Our final destination: the Dead Sea. The tour took us to the Ramada Resort, which offered a buffet lunch, pool access, showers, and a quick shuttle to the beach.

You can visit public beaches, but the facilities (especially showers) are limited, and you’ll definitely want one after floating in such salty water.

Floating in the Dead Sea is surreal. The salt content is so high you can’t sink — in fact, it’s a little tricky to move around at all. You really dont need to do anything to float. I felt clumsy since I coulnd’t move like I would usually do in the water, quite unique. The water can sting if you have cuts or sensitive skin, but it’s also rich in minerals and feels strangely therapeutic. I slathered on some Dead Sea mud, let it dry under the sun, and washed it off for a free spa treatment that left my skin feeling smooth and renewed.

Then, we drove back to Amman.

Floating Dead Sea

Day 4:

A Slow Morning in Amman

On my final day, I took things slow. Fadi was busy during the day, so I ventured out on my own to explore more of Amman. I wandered through downtown, where local markets buzz with life, and stopped by the Roman Theater, a 6,000-seat amphitheater built in the 2nd century AD that still hosts events today. I visited a few mosques, admired their architecture, and just soaked in the energy of the city.

Later that afternoon, Fadi came to pick me up and take me to the airport. I met his fiancée (they’ve since married and even invited me to the wedding), and we talked about everything — from culture to dreams to how travel connects strangers in the most unexpected ways. Before saying goodbye, I gave him a generous tip — not out of obligation, but out of appreciation. People like Fadi, who go out of their way to be kind and helpful, remind me why I love traveling solo. You meet people who become part of your story.

Final Thoughts

Jordan surprised me in all the best ways. From the ancient wonders of Petra to the spiritual calm of Mount Nebo, the raw beauty of Wadi Rum, and the surreal sensation of floating in the Dead Sea, to the people, the warmth, the hospitality, and the connections.

And while four days gave me a taste, I know I’ll be back for the full feast.

If you’re planning your own adventure:
Take your time. Talk to locals. Eat the kunafa. Drink the Shaneeneh. Float. Hike. Breathe.

Are you ready to start discovering Jordan?

I decided to book a tour when I went to Jordan and they simplified my planning and enhanced my travel experience ! I’m leaving the link to the tour below in case you are interested!

Are you ready to start discovering Jordan?

I decided to book a tour when I went to Jordan and they simplified my planning and enhanced my travel experience ! I’m leaving the link to the tour below in case you are interested!

More in Jordan

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